Exfoliation 101: How I Added Exfoliants to My Routine Without Overdoing It
- R A E
- Apr 8
- 5 min read
If you’ve ever scrolled through skincare TikTok or wandered the aisles of a beauty store, chances are you’ve heard about exfoliants. AHAs, BHAs, PHAs, enzymes—it can feel like stepping into a chemistry lab. When I first tried to dip my toes into the exfoliation pool, I was overwhelmed. My skin was either dry and dull or red and angry—there was no in-between.
Exfoliation can do wonders, but it’s all about how you introduce it. Today, I’m sharing my take on building a skincare routine that includes exfoliating ingredients without freaking your skin out. Whether you're just starting out or trying to fix damage from overdoing it, this guide’s for you.
Let’s break it down question by question—because let’s be honest, that’s how we all Google our way through skincare.
What exactly is exfoliation, and do I even need it?
Short answer? Yes, probably. But let me explain why.
Exfoliation is all about helping your skin shed dead skin cells. Our skin naturally does this every few weeks, but things like age, stress, and even weather can slow it down. The result? Dullness, clogged pores, uneven texture, and breakouts.
For me, it was those annoying bumps under the skin that wouldn’t budge, no matter how often I cleansed. Once I added a gentle exfoliant to my routine (emphasis on gentle), things started to change.
There are two main types of exfoliation—chemical and physical. Physical is your traditional scrub or brush, and chemical uses acids to dissolve dead skin. While scrubs had their moment in my high school years (RIP to the apricot scrub era), chemical exfoliation has become the gold standard—especially if you want results without micro-tears.
Which exfoliant should I start with?
This is where things can feel like skincare alphabet soup. But once you understand the difference between AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs, it’s less intimidating.
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids): These are water-soluble and work on the surface of the skin. Think glycolic acid and lactic acid. They’re great for brightening and smoothing.
BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids): These are oil-soluble and go deeper into your pores. Salicylic acid is the hero here, and it’s amazing if you deal with blackheads or acne.
PHAs (Polyhydroxy Acids): The gentler cousins of AHAs. If you have sensitive skin, these are a great place to start.
Personally, I started with lactic acid. It’s one of the gentler AHAs and helped soften texture without stinging or drying me out. I used it just once a week at night and followed it with a nourishing moisturizer. No burning, no peeling, no drama.
Everyone’s skin is different, but here are a few I’ve rotated through and had success with:
Lactic acid serum for hydration and glow
Salicylic acid cleanser during hormonal breakouts
PHA toner when my skin needs a break but still feels dull
None of these are super intense, and that’s what’s worked best for me. I’ve found that gentle, consistent exfoliation gives better long-term results than going in heavy and fast.
Here are some products you could consider starting with -
How often should I exfoliate?
This is the golden question. And unfortunately, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer. But I will say this: less is more.
When I first started exfoliating, I made the rookie mistake of thinking more was better. I went from once a week to every other night in the span of two weeks. My skin looked great for a minute—until it didn’t. Flakiness, tightness, and angry red patches showed up, and I had to scale way back.
Now? I exfoliate two nights a week max, and only once if my skin feels even a little sensitive. Trust your skin. It’ll tell you what it likes (and what it very much doesn’t).
When should I apply exfoliating products in my routine?
Timing matters. Most exfoliants work best at night because your skin goes into repair mode while you sleep. Here’s the order I follow on exfoliation nights:
Cleanser: I always use a gentle, non-stripping cleanser.
Exfoliant: Whether it’s a toner, serum, or pad, I apply this right after cleansing.
Moisturizer: Don’t skip this step. Hydration is key after exfoliating.
Some people like to follow with a hydrating serum before moisturizing, and that works too. Just don’t layer too many actives at once. Exfoliating nights are not the time to throw in a retinol or strong vitamin C.
How do I know if my skin is over-exfoliated?
Ah, the signs. I’ve been there.
If your skin feels tight, looks red, gets shiny for no reason, or breaks out in ways it normally doesn’t—chances are you’ve overdone it. For me, it started with my moisturizer stinging and makeup sitting weird on my skin. That’s when I knew I had to stop and repair my skin barrier.
When in doubt, pause exfoliation for a week or two and focus on healing. Think ceramide creams, fragrance-free moisturizers, and hydrating masks. Once your skin feels like itself again, you can slowly reintroduce exfoliants—this time with a bit more caution.
What’s the best way to patch test an exfoliant?
It sounds boring, but patch testing can save your face—literally.
I usually apply a small amount of the product behind my ear or on the side of my neck. If it tingles a bit but calms down quickly, that’s fine. If it burns or leaves behind redness the next day, it’s a no-go.
Always do this before going full face, especially with acids. Your skin will thank you.
Do I need sunscreen if I exfoliate?
Yes. Yes. And yes again.
Exfoliating makes your skin more sensitive to the sun. Even if you exfoliate at night, you need to wear SPF the next morning. I learned this the hard way when I noticed sun spots developing faster than usual. Now, I don’t leave the house without sunscreen—even on cloudy days.
Look for a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher. And if you’re worried about it messing with your makeup, there are great lightweight, no-white-cast options now.
Can I use physical exfoliants?
If you like the feel of a scrub, I get it. There’s something satisfying about that clean, smooth feeling. But go easy. Look for microfine particles (like rice powder or bamboo) rather than rough beads or walnut shells. Use it once a week max, and don’t press too hard.
Personally, I only use a gentle scrub if I’ve worn heavy makeup or sunscreen and need that extra cleanse. It’s more of a bonus step, not a regular one.
Exfoliation is a skincare habit, not a quick fix. You don’t need five different acids or daily treatments. What you need is patience, consistency, and the willingness to listen to your skin.
I used to think exfoliation was the magic solution to every skin issue. And while it’s definitely powerful, it’s not a substitute for the basics—cleansing, moisturizing, and sun protection.
So if you’re just starting out, take it slow. Pick one exfoliant, start once a week, and build from there. Keep your skin barrier happy and your expectations realistic. That’s how you’ll get the glow without the drama.
And honestly? There’s nothing more satisfying than seeing your skin transform over time—safely, gently, and with a little help from science.
Love,
Rae
Image Credits - Gökhan Baytekin
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